Traversing the Northwest Passage
1 - 27 September 2025

18 September 2025: Day 18

Cruise Day 11: Greenland: Uummannaq

Introduction

We arrived in the harbour of Uummannaq just before dawn. Despite the darkness the huge heart-shaped mountain that towers over the town was clear against the sky. Soon after breakfast we motored across to the wharf for an easy and dry landing at one of Greenland’s most picturesque communities. After disembarking, we walked through the town, exploring cultural and historic sites that give Uummannaq its unique charm: the old church; traditional turf house; the old Doctor's House where we watched (and smelled) seal skin scrubbing; the museum that included displays of hunting artefacts, traditional clothing and displays dedicated to Alfred Wegener (father of Continental Drift); the Blubber House with displays of local crafts. We then gathered for a performance of music and dance - three young women sang traditional Greenlandic songs, their voices rich with emotion and history, while hand drums added a powerful rhythm. Finally we wandered through the local (and only) supermarket to see familiar (and unusual) foods on offer.

Arriving at Uummannaq at dawn
The bay was full of ice.
Uummannaq as the sun came up
We headed into the town...
and arrived at a jetty - no more wet landings!
The town's main industry is fishing...
with a large fish factory.
Apparently it doesn't rain here.
Where??
The old Blubber Store, now an arts and crafts display
Old turf house
The old stone church
Window and dressed stone details.
Icebergs at the end of the street.
The old Doctor's House.
How to dress the skin of a seal...
and the finished product.
Only in Winter.
Greenland flag (at half mast as a politician in the govenment at Nuuk had died unexpectedly).
To the museum
Pathway up to the school and lookout point.
Santa's postbox.
Views from the lookout.
Children's playground.
Performances of music and dance.

Video

Inside the local supermarket.
They sell postage stamps also..
DKK48 is about USD7.50
USD31 per steak
They have taxis?
And an ambulance
The old blubber store
Art and craft displays inside.
Heading back to the jetty
Run this way if being chased (by shark? whale? tsunami?)
Local cemetery.
Self portrait...
Departing through the icebergs.

Time-lapse video of our passage

I set up a camera on the deck of our cabin to record a photo every 30 seconds. The photos have been compressed into a short video


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Last updated: 22 November 2025